The Mother Of Pearl Handle
Versailles has the odd talent of looking both finished and temporary. The palace gates, gilded and confident, shine as if Louis XIV had only stepped inside to look for a hat. Meanwhile, every café tab...
Continue readingUnraveling history's alternate timelines
Versailles has the odd talent of looking both finished and temporary. The palace gates, gilded and confident, shine as if Louis XIV had only stepped inside to look for a hat. Meanwhile, every café tab...
Continue readingValletta in late June has the good manners to bake a man evenly from all sides. The limestone gives the sun back with interest. By nine this morning, Republic Street was already the color of old bone,...
Continue readingThe port this morning had the ordinary Odessa smell first: wet hemp, coal smoke, oranges crushed under cart wheels, and horse urine steaming faintly where the sun had found the stones. For three minut...
Continue readingThe first thing I saw this morning was not Geneva’s lake or the line of the Jura, though both were doing their usual polished tourist work beyond the bus window. It was a boy on a scooter shouting, “Y...
Continue readingThe city still looks like Nanjing first, before it becomes strange. That is useful. The walls rise broad and self-satisfied from the damp plain, their bricks darkened by winter mist and cooksmoke. The...
Continue readingThe first thing I saw in Innsbruck this morning was not the Nordkette, though it was doing its usual work of looming above the roofs like a municipal warning. I saw, at eye level, a line of cardboard ...
Continue readingLeipzig has the same damp stone dignity I expected: high black roofs, shop windows sweating from coal heat, the tram wires humming above the wet street, and the kind of gray afternoon that makes every...
Continue readingThe tram from Milan left a gray paste of melted snow and coal grit along my cuffs, which was as good an introduction to Sesto San Giovanni as any official would have devised. Factories stood close to ...
Continue readingThe coral houses of Kilwa take the morning sun like old teeth: white where they are clean, yellow where the salt has had opinions. From the harbor steps I could see lateen sails hanging loose in the s...
Continue readingThe lake had the color of hammered tin before sunrise, and the wind came off it with enough teeth to make every dog in Lukurmata curl under a wall and reconsider its career. I woke beside a storage co...
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