Unraveling history's alternate timelines
I came in by foot along the inside path above the anchorage, where the pines keep the wind busy and the war keeps everyone busy pretending not to notice the wind. The first thing I recognized—because ...
Continue readingThe first thing I learned this morning is that even a war can have office hours. The sky over the Canal Zone has been busy since dawn—British and French aircraft making low, irritated sounds like tir...
Continue readingThe train from Saint-Lazare emptied me onto the platform in the usual way: a shove of bodies, a wobble of luggage, a breath of coal-damp air that settles in the back of the throat and stays there like...
Continue readingThe new flags have the sheen of fresh dye, and the wind coming off the gulf keeps trying to prove it by snapping the cloth like a teacher’s ruler. Red bunting runs from balcony to balcony, looped in c...
Continue readingThe Atlantic wind on Gorée has a way of making every paper edge lift and worry at itself. Even the sea seems impatient here, shouldering the rocks and then withdrawing as if it has remembered an appoi...
Continue readingI arrived at Cliff Palace the way most visitors do: by trying not to look nervous while my feet argue with the rock. The handholds are polished by a century of palms, and the ladders lean at angles th...
Continue readingAnhalter Bahnhof received me the way it always does when this city is pretending to be stable: steam and coal smell trapped under the iron roof, porters shouting numbers like they were prayers, and a ...
Continue readingSarai sits on the lower Volga the way a heavy book sits on a table: not elegant, but undeniable. I arrived with my boots still stiff from road dust and a head full of old habits—count the guards, watc...
Continue readingI arrived at the marsh front the way most people arrive anywhere in a war: by pretending it’s a normal errand. The first thing I noticed wasn’t the artillery. It was the damp. Not the romantic kind, ...
Continue readingThe Rhône looks like it always does when it pretends not to care about politics: brown water shouldering past reeds, barges pushing upstream with a slow, stubborn confidence, and the smell of pitch an...
Continue reading